In the mid-2010s, as solar fragrances were gaining popularity on women’s shelves, a particular aromatic style conquered the male audience – the so-called “BLUE”. We’re not talking about aquatic compositions, which became icons in the 1990s, but rather a well-defined, modern fougère structure that is easily recognizable: an energizing top of citrus and cool spices, a luminous heart of clary sage, lavender and/or geranium, and a warm base of amberwood and ambrox, with fruity and floral hints. Holding a crucial role, the base components not only balance freshness and sweetness but also contribute to the above-average sillage and longevity characteristic of blue fragrances.
The term “blue fragrance” started to appear on specialized perfume blogs and forums, propelled by the success of Bleu de Chanel, launched in 2010. After a decade of producing flankers of Allure Homme (1999), the maison had decided to introduce a new masculine pillar that embodied a style both casual and elegant, simple yet well-structured, like a navy blue suit made for the modern man. To achieve this, perfumer Jacques Polge intertwined a fresh and effervescent accord of lemon, grapefruit, mint, pink pepper, and ginger with a warm and comfortable base of woods, amber, ambrox, and musks.
With an enormous worldwide acceptance, Chanel launched Bleu Eau de Parfum in 2014, which also reinforced the upcoming trend of higher concentrations for men. This version featured a base with a heavier dose of amber-woody synthetics* and ambrox**, aligning more closely with the blue fragrance concept as it became known. The success of Bleu de Chanel paved the way for Dior’s Sauvage and its black and blue bottle, created by François Demachy and launched in 2015. Sauvage anchored the blue fragrance trend, becoming immensely popular. In the following years, other designer brands launched multiple iterations of the style, always maintaining an instantly identifiable vibe (see examples further ahead).
On the other hand, the typical niche consumer doesn’t seem very interested in blue fragrances, either because they have become ubiquitous – an “elevator scent” – or because they border on the functional, sometimes reminiscent of personal hygiene products, or even laundry products. A notable example of a blue fragrance in the niche market is Elysium pour Homme by Roja Parfums, launched in 2017 in a blue bottle with gold accents. Interestingly, it was introduced for the first time in a Parfum Cologne concentration. Some argue this was an attempt to distance itself from mainstream offerings, sold at a much higher price point.
* Brands frequently list Amberwood as an olfactory note in their marketing materials. This is an umbrella term that encompasses a blend of naturals and aroma chemicals with an abstract woody and balsamic scent profile, which can range from dry to sweet, from clean to animalic. Amber Xtreme® by IFF and Norlimbanol® by Firmenich are among the most popular – so multifaceted and addictive that they are practically a finished fragrance in themselves.
** More info on Ambrox: https://scentxplore.com/new/scentxpress-ambergris
BLUE FRAGRANCE PICKS
Here are a few examples of iconic blue fragrances and their main notes, excluding the commonly shared citruses, amberwood, and ambrox.
Bleu de Chanel EDP, 2014 (mint, ginger, incense)
Dior’s Sauvage, 2015 (black pepper, lavender, geranium)
Versace pour Homme Dylan Blue, 2016 (marine notes, black pepper, incense)
Prada’s Luna Rossa Carbon, 2017 (black pepper, lavender, aquatic and metallic notes)
Roja Parfums’ Elysium pour Homme, 2017 (black currant, juniper berries, vetiver)
Bvlgari’s Aqva pour Homme Atlantiqve, 2017 (marine notes)
Yves Saint Laurent’s Y EDP, 2018 (apple, ginger, clary sage, juniper berries, geranium)
Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Giò Profondo, 2020 (marine and mineral notes)
(text by Daniel Barros)
