Retaining their French name to this day, FOUGÈRES belong to the aromatic family, alongside citrus, green and aquatic scents. With a foreign and abstract designation, fougères are often referred to as “barbershop scents” due to their clean and tonic character reminiscent of shaving products. A classic fougère is characterized by an accord of citrus, lavender, geranium, tonka bean, and oakmoss, which can be further enriched with herbs, florals, spices, woods, amber, and vanilla, creating a harmonious balance between freshness, sweetness, and warmth. Despite changes in structure and the discovery of new raw materials, fougères continue to be instantly recognizable.
See also: Fougères, A Brief History | Part 2: New Tastes & Shapes
The fougère subfamily was inaugurated by the classic Fougère Royale, launched by the house of Houbigant in 1882 and composed by Paul Parquet. Although ferns (or “fougères” in direct translation from French) are virtually odorless, the perfumer argued that if they had a scent, it would be the scent of Fougère Royale. To create this fantasy note, he combined lavender, geranium, coumarin, and oakmoss, accompanied by citruses, fresh herbs, warm spices, woods, salicylates, and musks. Coumarin had been identified in tonka beans, native to South America, in 1856, synthesized in 1868, and mass-produced by 1880. The odor of the coumarin molecule, comprising 10% of the formula, can be described as bitter almond-like, with facets of hay and tobacco. Fougère Royale is a landmark fragrance, being the first to incorporate a synthetic ingredient and, of course, marking the starting point for one of the most important genres in perfumery.
In 1889, Guerlain launched Jicky, following the fougère structure but enhancing the base with notes of sandalwood, rosewood, leather, benzoin, civet, and most notably, vanilla. The vanilla note was achieved through a blend of natural vanilla and vanillin, which was identified in vanilla pods in 1816 and synthesized from coniferin in 1874 and guaiacol in 1875. The generous addition of vanillin led to the creation of the oriental fougère genre, now known as amber fougère. Originally intended for a female audience, who found it “challenging”, Jicky began to be worn by men. It holds historical significance in perfumery as the first fragrance to use vanillin and the first to introduce an abstract composition. Jicky is also the oldest perfume still available on the market (Fougère Royale was discontinued in the 1950s and re-launched in 2010, reorchestrated by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux).
Decades later, almost simultaneously, two fougère-style perfumes became popular among men in the United States and Europe: Dana’s Canoe (1934) and Caron pour un Homme (1936). The first featured a distinct accord of carnation and cloves with powdery heliotropin, while the latter was centered around a duet of lavender and vanilla. Interestingly, Canoe was only officially marketed as a men’s fragrance in the 1960s.
Later on, the male audience was introduced to Pino Silvestre (1955), Brut by Fabergé (1964), and Monsieur Rochas (1969), all featuring a woodier, more rugged profile. These fragrances highlighted distinct duets: basil-pine, anise-greenery, and galbanum-leather, respectively. The range of options in men’s perfumery had significantly expanded by this time. Brut was a trailblazer as the first to be massively advertised as a masculine scent, with the slogan “If you have any doubts about yourself, try something else.”
Starting in the 1970s, a synthetic molecule discovered by IFF in 1966 revolutionized the world of perfumery – Dihydromyrcenol (DHM). This molecule delivers a long-lasting cool metallic note with hints of lime, lavender, and green nuances, enhancing and extending the freshness in aromatic compositions, particularly within the fougère family. Paco Rabanne pour Homme (1973) was an early adopter, incorporating 4% of DHM into its formula, paving the way for Guy Laroche’s Drakkar Noir (1982), which used 10%, ushering in a new era of fougères. This trend reached its peak with a staggering 20% concentration in Davidoff’s Cool Water (1988), where it was paired with Calone, a molecule with an aquatic feel. Other fougères from the 1980s and 1990s also made good use of this aroma chemical in varying proportions. Efficient and inexpensive, Dihydromyrcenol flooded the grooming industry, being added to products such as shaving foams, aftershaves, and soaps.
EXAMPLES OF MAINSTREAM FOUGÈRES
Here are a few examples of fougères and respective “extra” notes that enhance their shared classic fougère accord.
Paco Rabanne pour Homme, 1973 (DHM, rosemary, clary sage, honey, rosewood, patchouli)
Azzaro pour Homme, 1978 (anise, basil, clary sage, warm spices, woods, leather)
Yves Saint Laurent’s Kouros, 1981 (aldehydes, carnation, honey, leather, animalic notes)
Guy Laroche’s Drakkar Noir, 1982 (DHM, mint, lemon verbena, fresh herbs, pine needles, ambrox)
Boss Number One, 1985 (warm spices, honey, rose, jasmine, tobacco)
Davidoff’s Cool Water, 1988 (DHM, mint, aquatic notes, pineapple, woods, ambrox)
Calvin Klein’s Eternity for Men, 1990 (lemon, mandarin, fresh herbs, white florals, sandalwood)
Chanel’s Platinum Égoïste, 1993 (clary sage, rosemary, jasmine, woods)
Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme, 1994 (lemon, neroli, fresh herbs, warm spices, tobacco)
Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche pour Homme, 2003 (anise, rosemary, cloves, patchouli)
See also: Fougères, A Brief History | Part 2: New Tastes & Shapes
(text by Daniel Barros)
