This selection showcases a special focus on woody accords. BYREDO’s Desert Dawn offers a silky, powdery blend of cedar and sandalwood, while JULIETTE HAS A GUN’s Ex Vetiver highlights a trio of vetiver. ORMONDE JAYNE’s Kashmir delivers a smoky, spicy cedarwood accord. Rose appears in CARON’s Oud Excelsa, paired with oud and coffee, as well as in the ambery FREE YOURSELF’s Terre. Coffee also plays a key role in DIPTYQUE’s Bois Corsé, sharing the spotlight with sandalwood and tonka bean, while TAUER’s Heraud Elixir combines cacao, dates, and woods. Finally, PARFUMS DE MARLY’s Palatine offers a sophisticated blend of fruity violet and creamy sandalwood.
(fragrance descriptions by the respective brands)
PARFUMS DE MARLY | PALATINE
“This empowering, yet sophisticated Eau de Parfum revolves around a modern floral bouquet enhanced with fresh, fruity and powdery notes. An opening of mandarin, bergamot and pear lead to a daring, contemporary violet petal. For a velvety sensation, the overall fragrance settles on musk and creamy sandalwood. Palatine encourages confidence, instilling a feeling of assertiveness, and freedom. Top Notes: Mandarin, Bergamot, Pear. Middle Notes: Violet Petal, Lavandin, Floral bouquet. Base Notes: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla.”
BYREDO | DESERT DAWN
“Creativity can thrive in isolation. Like in nature, the imagination ebbs and flows. Desert Dawn transports the wearer to the open terrain of the vast expanse – a place one can visit in their mind, where a new idea comes forth at any given moment just as the dawn. Celebrating the power of nature’s creative juxtapositions, Desert Dawn’s olfactive intensity finds balance in the freshness of something new. Opening with the inviting sweet spices of Cardamom, wood-forward notes recall the dry heat of the desert. The enveloping warmth of Sandalwood and Cedarwood form a powerful heart while an enticing finish lingers with the rich smokiness of Vetiver and Silk Musk, enlivened by the crisp, clean scent of Papyrus, the warmness of the first rays of dawn, symbolizing a fragrance that is both dry and enveloping. Top: Cardamom, Rose Petals. Heart: Carrot, Cedarwood, Sandalwood. Base: Papyrus, Vetiver, Silk Musk.”
JULIETTE HAS A GUN | EX VETIVER
“The perfume is an overdose of vetiver with no less than 3 different varieties in the formula: Vetiver from Haiti, India, and Indonesia. «Ex» in Latin means «derived from», so the translation of Ex Vetiver in english would be «derived from vetiver»! In the lush meanders of a French labyrinth garden, three men, intrigued by a scent, set off on its trail. Where does this scent come from? The men weave through, get lost in its green over bursting trail, but persist. The woman blends into the greenery, hiding amongst the boxwoods. Only the fragrance remains. The lively sharpness of citruses pursued by a bold trio of Vetiver. What is this mystery scent? They emerge into a clearing, where the woman discreetly drops a bottle of the perfume. One of the men approaches, and as she leaves it on a pedestal, he seizes the bottle. The fragrance is now his. Top notes – Bergamot essence, Lemon essence. Heart notes – Vetiver des Sables (India), Vetiver (Haiti), Vetiver (Indonesia). Base notes – Ambroxan, Musk.”
CARON | OUD EXCELSA
“Oud Excelsa is a mesmerizing and radiant fragrance where the oud wood reveals his near-otherworldly elegance. An incredibly rare wood whose essence has withstood the test of time. A mystical aura fragrance who transcending senses and worlds. This story unfolds in a mysterious, hidden sanctum where the ancient oud wood is burning slowly. Time seems to stand still. Before us, a silhouette interprets the traces left by coffee grounds in the cup. This divinatory art is called tasseography. Speaking in entrancing tones, it foretells the future, transporting us through a whirlwind into another spacetime. Senses are subverted; worlds and times are transcended. Dreams surpass reality, blending the mystic and the sacred. An Oud – Coffee duality. In harmony with this unexpected fusion, the composition reveals its most captivating qualities. The richness of cistus absolute LMR, a resin infused with captivating amber nuances, accentuates the elegance of oud. A blend of birch, Atlas cedar, and papyrus wood essences introduces a subtle yet warm leathery depth. Meanwhile, the fresh cardamom essence elevates the coffee, evoking the allure of Middle Eastern traditions. Adding to the intrigue is natrotar, an exclusive molecule that unveils the deepest, smokiest facets of the blend, while robuston highlights its most nuanced toasted notes. Finally, CARON’s iconic Bulgarian rose delicately embraces the composition, adding a final touch of sophistication.”
ORMONDE JAYNE | KASHMIR
“4000 metres above sea level, with its snowy glaciers and pristine lakes, rivers gush through deep Himalayan valleys, densely forested with majestic towering Deodar trees. At this high altitude, the Valley of Kashmir presents a uniquely breath-taking terrain. Home to a diverse array of plants, meadows are blanketed with wild, rare blue poppies and Kashmiri saffron each summer. Kashmir by Ormonde Jayne is not without considerable allure. The emphasis of this woody hypnotic scent is Deodar, from the cedar wood family and a soft dreamy sandalwood, underscored with iris, rose, jasmine, cashmeran, vanilla and a caress of musk to fix this pervasive perfume. Head: Bergamot, Cardamom, Coriander Seed, Saffron, Pink Pepper. HEART: Jasmine, Iris, Rose, Blue Poppy, Himalayan Fir. SOUL: Deodar, Sandalwood, Cashmeran, Benzoin, Vanilla, Patchouli, Incense, Myrrh, Musk.”
FREE YOURSELF | TERRE
“This rich and earthy scent starts with spicy saffron, ginger, cumin, davana, and birch leaf, reminiscent of a forest at dawn. It unfolds into a heart of rose, ylang ylang, thyme, and tolubalsam, capturing the essence of a thriving garden. The base combines woody amber, cedarwood, sandalwood, and opoponax, grounding the fragrance with the richness of fertile forest soil. Perfect for those who favor bold, natural scents – Perfumer, Xavier Blaizot. Top: saffron : ginger : cumin : davana : birch leaf. Heart: rose : ylang ylang : thyme : tolu balsam. Base: woody amber : cedarwood china : sandalwood : opoponax.”
TAUER | HERAUD ELIXIR
“The inspiration behind HERAUD came from a deep desire to create a truly unique fragrance. I aimed to craft a fragrance centred around rich cacao extracts, taking it beyond the usual gourmand scents. I wanted to make a perfume that’s both delicious and sophisticated, combining the comforting sweetness of gourmand notes with a modern touch and timeless appeal. Using high-quality cacao extracts as the core, I achieved a luxurious aroma that lasts all day. I wanted this fragrance to be warm and ambery, wrapping you in a cozy scent that’s perfect for any occasion. Its long-lasting nature ensures that the delightful mix of sweet and bitter cacao, along with hints of vanilla and bourbon bergamot, stays with you throughout the day. The idea was to balance modern and classic elements, offering a unique scent that’s both familiar and refreshingly new. I wanted it to be a celebration of gourmand indulgence, carefully crafted to be beyond the ordinary. The addition of bourbon bergamot adds a fresh, slightly citrusy edge, enhancing the complexity of the fragrance. To further enhance the scent, I incorporated woody notes that are dry and crisp, providing a perfect balance to the ambergris and musky undertones. These woody notes give the perfume a grouding effect, adding depth and sophistication without overpowering the gourmand elements. The result is a multifaceted and intriguing fragrance that evolves beautifully on the skin. Head notes: an uplifting Bourbon bergamot oil, balancing a bitter cocoa head note. Heart notes: fruity, milky cocoa with the sweet notes of dried dates. A natural touch of clean white florals. Base notes: dry timber and spicy cedarwood, sensual Planifolia vanilla, clean powdery musk and crisp amber gris.”
IMAGINARY AUTHORS | UNTAMABLE
“Have you ever had a love so wild that you couldn’t hold on? At its core, Untamable is a love story born in the springs, waterfalls, and Indian Paintbrush covered fields of Texas Hill Country. It’s a classic western told through the lens of the new west, about the kind of love that stays up late after the honky tonk on Saturday night and is still up early for church on Sunday. It’s a story populated by modern day rabble-rousers, bandits, and outlaws—a compassionate waitress, an indigenous rodeo star, a bluegrass playboy, a female long-haul trucker, an up-and-coming rap artist, a queer sheriff, mischievous bachelorettes, and german tourists looking for the “real” America—all of them with one thing in common: they’re each untamable in their own way. When the sun sets on this cautionary tale, it won’t be hard to see yourself in each of them. NOTES: Leather Saddle, Tonka Resin, Saguaro Blossom, Texas Yellowstar, Cumin, Tumbleweed, Paso Fino.”
ELYSIAN | SUCRE DE SOIE
“In a land where dreams take flight, / Under cotton candy clouds so light, / A magical carnival comes alive, / Where joy and wonder truly thrive. / Raspberry whispers on the breeze, / Guava blossoms dance with ease. / Carambola stars in the sky, / Lotus flowers gently sigh. / Pear and apple, crisp and sweet, / Mingle with marshmallow’s treat. / Coconut milk flows like streams, / As peachy hues paint the scene. / Vanilla sugar, soft as snow, / Star jasmine in a moonlit glow. / Sunshine warmth, a golden ray, / Sandalwood paths to guide your way. / In this realm of silk and grace, / Where laughter fills the open space, / “Sucre de Soie” invites you near, / To a world where magic’s always clear. / With each spritz, the carnival’s spun, / A symphony of sweetness, one by one. / Let this scent be your delight, / A whimsical journey, day or night. Notes: strawberry, raspberry, cotton candy, guava blossom, carambola, lotus flower, pear, water lily, coconut milk, apple, marshmallow, peach, vanilla sugar, star jasmine, sunshine, sandalwood.”
DIPTYQUE | BOIS CORSÉ
“Bois Corsé evokes the textured outer layer of a tree. A combination of intense black coffee absolute and essence of sandalwood, with tonka bean blended in. A fragrance with a lingering sillage, its name a play on words: “écorce” is French for “bark”, “corsé” means “full-bodied” – like the coffee aroma celebrated here. Diptyque has always drawn inspiration from nature, whether in the wild or tamed by man. Nature enchants our gaze. It stirs our curiosity, feeds our creativity. The Maison’s new collection, Les Essences de Diptyque (The Essences of Diptyque), freely reinterprets the treasures of nature, fluctuating between the realistic and the fantastical. Revealed in all their beauty, these treasures invite us to pause and admire them. Delicate, dreamlike, the five compositions in this collection are the product of an alliance between the perfumer’s nose and the hand of an artist. Each creation celebrates one of nature’s treasures – reinventing it in fragrance and exceptional drawings. Bois Corsé is a tribute to bark, the vital protective mantle that shields the vulnerable core of the tree. Exposed to the elements, it gradually takes shape, developing relief textures that are coarse, irregular and yet pleasing to the touch. In this olfactory and visual composition, which combines the work of perfumer Nathalie Cetto and her initial collaborator Olivier Pescheux – with that of drawing artist Nigel Peake, tree bark comes vividly to life. Rough, yet soothing.”
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Check also: 10 New Fragrance Drops | August 2024 (Part 2)
