The second part of September’s releases showcases a broad array of gourmands. Almond features in both ARQUISTE’s Almond Suede, blending marzipan and suede leather, and in PIERRE GUILLAUME’s 17.1 Dilshad, which pairs tuberose with the nutty richness of pistachio. JUSBOX’s Fifty Four captures the spirit of Studio 54 with a bold piña colada and chocolate accord, while LES INDÉMODABLES’ Vanille Havane Coeur de Oud layers creamy vanilla with oud. In contrast, ACQUA DI PARMA’s Luce di Rosa presents a luminous rose brightened by vibrant citrus and pepper, which also contrasts with the dark, mysterious incense theme of PERRIS MONTE CARLO’s Encens Sacré.
(fragrance descriptions by the respective brands)
ACQUA DI PARMA | LUCE DI ROSA
“Luce di Rosa, an embodiment of contrasts and dynamism, is a gender-neutral Signatures of the Sun fragrance that illuminates the essence of rose with the unexpected prism of vibrant sophistication. A fragrance sculpted by light that unfolds like a radiant glow, blending luminous citrus notes with warm undertones. The fragrance opens with an invigorating citrus blend, where Bergamot and Mandarin intertwine and is heightened by the spicy nuances of fresh Black Pepper and Pink Pepper CO2 extract, alongside the subtle accents of Cardamom Oil. At its heart, Luce di Rosa flourishes with the noble Bulgarian Rose Oil, the centerpiece of this olfactive masterpiece, extracted through steam-water distillation to capture the essence of the rose at its most vibrant, with a unique olfactory profile that is rosy, green, and spicy, with hints of honey. This dynamic rose is complemented by the verdant Geranium Oil, creating a floral and profoundly rich core. In the base, Luce di Rosa settles into a deep, grounding essence of Vetiver, Guaiac Wood, and Cedarwood, all enveloped by the soft, sensual embrace of Musk nuances, crafting a finale that unveils and reflects ever-different sensations over time. Top notes: Bergamot, Longoza Oil, Pink pepper. Heart notes: Rose Bulgaria Oil, Geranium, Fresh Black Pepper. Bottom notes: Vetiver Oil, Gaiac Wood, Cedarwood.”
ARQUISTE | ALMOND SUEDE
“An addictive and sophisticated gourmand balancing almond marzipan and suede leather inspired by Medieval Andalusia, the city of Córdoba and almond sweets. A must try for gourmand lovers. December 810, Córdoba, Al-Andalus / Sefarad, Spain. In the golden age of Al-Andalus, confectioners crafted almond marzipan of unparalleled delicacy. The secret lay in the whispered exchange between Moorish and Spanish kitchens, transforming recipes of almond flour, sugar, saffron and orange blossom into an art. Nearby, within the vibrant streets of Córdoba, skilled artisans shaped leather into exquisite wonders. Thus, the velvety scent of marzipan commingled with the oaky Córdoba leather, their crafts a symbolic bridge between cultures and traditions, proving that even in the crucible of diverse rule, the sweetest symphonies could emerge from shared traditions. Developed with Calice Becker. Top Notes: Pink peppercorn, Italian bergamot oil, Honeycomb absolute, Bitter almond oil. Heart Notes: Cistus concrete from Spain ORPUR, North African neroli oil ORPUR, Saffron accord, Orange flower accord. Base Notes: Candied sugar, Vanilla absolute, Pine tar from France ORPUR, Suede accord.”
PIERRE GUILLAUME | 17.1 DILSHAD
“Tubéreuse Couture 17: a killer in majesty. Pierre GUILLAUME’s first approach can be seen as an anatomical study of the flower: a surgical dissection of its fundamental olfactory facets, whose formula has no other aim than to tell the story of and glorify tuberose from the top to the base notes. Tuberose is the star and sole protagonist of a tailor-made scenario. In this new opus, the tuberose is put at the service of a story and shares the stage with a young leading lady… A pistachio and tuberose accord. The complexity of tuberose and its voluptuous strangeness make it a difficult beauty to marry. When macho accords of animalised leathers don’t try to silence it, we surround it with stooges. Jasmine and orange blossom often play “diplomatic supporting roles”. It’s in pistachio that Pierre GUILLAUME has found an alter ego who can match the floral Diva blow for blow. The bitterness and green notes that naturally resonate within them create the link cultivated by the perfumer. The tuberose flowers seem to infuse a bath of musk and almond milk, a delicate evocation of the enfleurage technique. DILSHAD means “The one who brings happiness” in Persian, a reference to the Iranian pistachio. Notes: Iranian Pistachio, Almond Milk, Tuberose, Opopanax, Musk.”
BOND NO. 9 | BOND NUMBER ONE
“Inspired by this blend of old and new, Bond Number One takes the enduringly popular white musk note—regarded as one of the most sensual and grounding scents—and artfully remixes it for the 21st century in a novel hierarchy that instantly feels classically comforting and yet, ephemeral in its eternal romance. Bond No.9 collaborated with a true artist—Senior Perfumer Vincent Schaller of DSM-Firmenich—to reinvent white musk for today’s discerning fragrance connoisseur. Number One is first and foremost sensual: the top notes open with fresh Italian bergamot and the dreamy, intoxicating florals of ylang ylang. Residing in the very heart is white musk, soft and animalic, always formidable yet infinitely wearable. Flanked by sultry Bulgarian rose, sexy jasmine petals, and warm Brazilian tonka bean, this center epitomizes elegance. For the bottom notes, decadent Madagascar vanilla, spicy Indonesian patchouli, and creamy cashmere wood make for an artful combination that elevates white musk into a true masterpiece. Notes: Italian Bergamot, Ylang Ylang, White Musk, Bulgarian Rose, Jasmine Petals, Brazilian Tonka Bean, Madagascar Vanilla, Indonesian Patchouli, Cashmere Wood.”
LES INDÉMODABLES | VANILLE HAVANE COEUR DE OUD
“Antoine LIE immediately envisioned an olfactory structure to showcase this ‘solitaire’ that our R&D team had meticulously crafted, displaying a perfect balance between fruity/aromatic top notes and woodier, smoky, and animalic base notes. However, Valérie, the founder of LES INDEMODABLES, strongly opposed the idea. She recalled the flood of oud-themed creations that were recently trending, with most of the offerings following a similar olfactory structure—lacking in creative interest, to be honest! That’s when we had the idea to use this ingredient—an absolute crime to let it sit forgotten in a drawer—to create a variation of the collection’s leading fragrance: VANILLE HAVANE. Antoine secretly composed a version of Vanille Havane enriched with the deep, complex facets of this extract. The result was truly magical—an accord that subtly maintained the original structure while transporting us to another dimension. Its aromatic and spicy facets bring brightness, while on the skin, it reveals a darker trail of precious woods, tanned leathers, and smoky resins. In the end, Valérie couldn’t help but fall in love with this variation of the original Vanille Havane formula!”
MILLER HARRIS | STACCATO
“Addictive and smoky, a deep blend of Chinese cedarwood, tobacco and benzoin create this alluring scent. Staccato is inspired by a passage of text in ‘The Age of Innocence’ by Edith Wharton. One page was the only thing given to perfumer Karine Vinchon Spehner as the brief for the fragrance to be created. The passage describes the 2 main characters meeting in her apartment and despite his engagement to another woman, there is an attraction. So the scent is about a forbidden love, and Karine searched for something between politeness and desire. So the honey is here to speak of the sweetness of the sentiment, yet there were many spices used which symbolise the attraction and also to evoke the far off bazaar. The Chinese cedarwood is used for its smoky quality and tobacco, to remind us of the coffee and the fireplace Ambergris is also mentioned in the book, so, we used a representation of ambergris subtlety in the fragrance, and it helps to bring a subtle classic modernity that speaks to the period. Head Notes: Cinnamon Leaves*, Cardamom Co2*, Organic Ginger*, Clovebuds* Saffron. Heart Notes: Rose, Sambac Jasmine*, Leather, Honey. Lasting Impressions: Tobacco *, Ambergris, Cade* Benzoin Siam* Chinese Cedarwood*.”
JUSBOX | FIFTY FOUR
“Imagine diving into the atmosphere of the most famous and legendary nightclub in the world – New York City’s Studio 54 with its euphoric blast of excitement, cutting edge dance music, the madness of the jet set crowd and always something unexpected, plus the rumored use of forbidden “you know what’s?”. Master Perfumer Julien Rasquinet collaborated with Sebastian Jara, creator of The Perfume Guy, and the creators of Jusbox Perfumes to recreate the fragrance we would all wear if Studio 54 still existed today, with elements that call to mind positive feelings and memorable moments. The exotic creaminess of the Piña Colada accord and the energy of Cardamom and Davana combine with the distinctive notes of Saffron, Chocolate Accord, Nagarmotha and Cinnamon Bark. The full-bodied, defined and rich base is composed of Rhum SFE, Vanilla Resin Absolute, Sandalwood, Patchouli and Tobacco: the hidden side of unknown pleasure. Top notes: Piña Colada, Cardamom, Guatemala Davana. Heart notes: Saffron, Chocolate Accord, Nagarmotha, Cinnamon Bark. Bottom notes: Rhum, Vanilla Resin Absolute, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Tobacco.”
PERRIS MONTE CARLO | ENCENS SACRÉ
“Incense, an ancient essence of the soul, has journeyed through millennia, suspended between earth and sky. In the rituals of early civilizations, it burned as a sacred offering, carrying dreams and prayers to the divine. We have retraced the paths of incense and selected the most peculiar quality…”
ÉLISIRE | HAUTBOIS
“Oud Power. Top: Ylang ylang, Chamomille Essential Oil, Cinnamon Sri Lanka. Mid: Honey from Provence vegan accord, Cypriol, Gaïac Wood, Vetiver Haiti, Sandalwood Australia. Base: Oud Assafi, Patchouli Indonesia, Wood Leather, Cistus Absolute. The fascination of dark Woods, dense and majestic… Orgy of the senses. Divine Imprint of Bengal Oud in its purest and most intoxicating expression, set with Sandalwood, smoked Gaïac Wood, Patchouli and Cistus… Warmed by an enveloping Honey accord, illuminated by Cinnamon and Ylang ylang. To fully unfold, the heart embraces the magnetic vibes of Haitian Vetiver whose scents exude with mystery and sensuality. A refined and precious Elixir that distills the power of Oud in a bronze-colored bottle.”
MAISON D’ETTO | VERDADES
“A luminous white floral reveals the indolic nature of orange blossom. Gentle petals of jasmine are kissed by an ozonic dew. From the heart, the warmth of a comforting vanilla radiates like embers of a golden flame. Verdades represents the splendor of the present. It reminds us to keep ablaze the glow of our inner radiance. Smells like: Neroli, Ozonic Accord ( TOP ); Jasmine Sambac, Orange Flower Absolute ( HEART ); Vanilla Bean, Patchouli ( BASE ).”
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Check also: 10 New Fragrance Drops | September 2024 (Part 1)
