As a pioneer in high luxury perfumery, ROJA DOVE has brought the brilliance of British creativity to a global stage through his brand. In this conversation, he reflects on his journey, from founding his house in 2011 to crafting opulent fragrances that transcend trends and captivate hearts. Roja shares insights into the power of scent as an intimate accessory, offers invaluable tips for fragrance enthusiasts, and reveals the deeply personal stories behind some of his most daring creations. Step into the refined and imaginative world of ROJA, where legacy, luxury, and artistry converge.
Roja, first of all, it’s a tremendous pleasure to have you at the sixth edition of ScentXplore!
How did ROJA come to be? What motivated you at the start?
I created ROJA for a very simple reason: I am passionate about creativity, and I think we all have a duty to pass on knowledge and make a mark. I think leaving a legacy is very important, so we launched ROJA in July 2011, appealing to those searching for true luxury, legitimacy, and authenticity in fragrances. This is my creative hallmark.
As a proud British man, I thought it was also important to help bring the brilliance of British perfumery to the world, and the creativity and sense of fantasy that comes with it.
We are celebrated around the world for our uncompromising approach to luxury. Our handcrafted compositions created using the finest quality raw materials, unapologetically encased in jewel-like bottles, crowned with a crystal cap.
We create distinctive Parfum and Eau De Parfum fragrances with renowned longevity, that resonate with the client and become a part of their personality – their scented signature.
Our house is comprised of 8 generous olfactive Collections which cater to all tastes and desires – there is something for everybody. Each olfactive art piece tells a story. In many ways, our creations can help you tell your story. Perfume is your most intimate accessory. It is an extension of who you are, or perhaps, who you want to be.
What tips would you share that people may not fully grasp?
Experiencing fragrance is a joyful art form, so it is important to understand the do’s and no not’s of applying fragrance.
DO: One of the most beautiful places for scent is in the clavicle. As you move your head, you have the pleasure of smelling it, but also if someone comes to greet you, they will too. DON’T: Never spray scent directly onto the neck. This area is very sensitive and fragrance has alcohol in it, which will dry out and age the skin. DO: Spray scent on the wrists; we use our hands and arms when we speak and it is movement that brings scent to life. DON’T: Never put scent behind your ear. Hollywood taught us to do this, but the skin there produces a lot of oil, which is quite unpleasant. DON’T: A lot of people spray scent into the air around them, mistakenly thinking they will be coated in it. In fact, most of it just goes to waste. DO: Spray four or five times in the same spot, a few centimetres from your skin. The scent will last for much longer. DON’T: Avoid rubbing your wrists together after spraying scent. The friction creates heat, which distorts the scent. Simply press your wrists together instead. DON’T: Steer clear of fragrance shopping with a friend. Trust your own nose. DO: Take the time to find the scent that expresses who you are. A scent might be something you have a life-long love affair with, so you wouldn’t pick up a new partner that quickly.
What are your favorite ingredients?
Labdanum from the Rock Rose, as it makes me think of peeling back a scarf and smelling the soft, warm intimacy of another persons skin. I use Labdanum in the fragrance I created for me, ROJA Haute Luxe, to give the impression of a warm, luxurious cashmere hug.
Aoud, as I love the thought of taking an ancient ingredient and modernizing it in new and surprising ways for extraordinary experiences. For instance, our Sweetie Aoud creation combines Aoud with a synthetic ingredient I have created called the Patisserie accord. Combined with ancient Aoud, the Patisserie accord lends a gourmand quality reminiscent of walking into a beautiful luxurious bakery. Totally unexpected, this creation will make your skin smell completely addictive.
Cedarwood evokes strength of character and empowerment and is celebrated in all of our Elysium creations. Not only is it very sensual, but it gives an unrivalled longevity that evokes permanence and strength. The Elysium creations are inspired by paradise, another word for Elysium, captured within a fragrance for those with an inner strength of character. Those who enter our Elysium universe have the strength to create their own paradise – their world, their way.
Lavender as it tells you it is summer. Whether that is in an English country garden with its permeating sweetness, or dried in the sun with its’ leathery undertones on the Cote d’Azur. No other smell quite encapsulates summer in the same way. I use it in Isola Blu to give the impression of a luxurious suncream and warm, sun-kissed skin.
Which ROJA creation do you find most daring?
The ROJA creation I believe to be our most daring is Diaghilev. Big, bold, and baroque, this Chypré fragrance is ultra tailored and ultra refined. The fragrance is all about breaking the rule, much like the man who inspired it. Initially created for an exhibition on The Ballet Russes for the Victoria & Albert Museum in London in 2010, this perfume pays homage to one of the greatest forces of the twentieth century: Sergei Diaghilev. Founder of the legendary Ballet Russes, he totally re-wrote the rules of artistry and was even said to have scented the curtains of the theatre so patrons were enveloped in a burst of fragrance as they were raised at the start of the performance. A complex fragrance that is at once spicy, fruity and leathery, Diaghilev is a creation of unapologetic opulence and has a loyal following amongst the fragrance community. It is the fragrance I hope I am remembered for.
Another creation I consider daring is Taif Aoud. This fragrance is really a story about Saudi and its natural abundance when it comes to luxury perfumery. I like the idea that the Taif roses grow at altitude, and I wanted to recreate the feeling of the sun coming onto the mountains in the morning, shining onto the roses. I didn’t want it to be a powdery rose or a velvety rose. Instead, I wanted this big bright open rose, which the aldehyde and the blackcurrant notes give to it. The aldehydes in the top give a bright shimmering effect, and the blackcurrant makes it feel almost juicy and very dewy, like the start of a fresh new day. I also wanted to capture the depth of the land, the history, the age of the mountains from where the roses spread, and this is what the frankincense and rich amber offers.
And which one required the most emotional dedication?
The fragrance which required the most emotional dedication was A Goodnight Kiss. When I was a boy of about six years old, my mother was going out to a cocktail party and came in to give me a kiss goodnight. I will never forget the image of her in a gold lame dress and how the light from the landing created a corona about her. Long after she kissed me goodnight, the scent of her lingered in my room. From that moment, I was captivated by the power of perfume and how it could transform somebody, how it could capture a moment in time.
I wanted to create a fragrance inspired by this memory, but was I was so apprehensive about launching a fragrance based on unconditional love. Once we did in 2015, the fragrance became our number 1 best-selling fragrance of that year. It became clear to me that people can relate to the power of a kiss and the impact it can have on your life.
With Gen-Z’s growing interest in luxury perfumery, how do you balance tradition while appealing to them? How does their perspective on fragrance differ from previous generations?
Our creations have always been focused on creativity and modernity. This is why, more than half of our clients are below 34 years old.
Around the world, we are welcoming Gen Z clients into ROJA thanks to the power and impact of social media, particularly Tik Tok. These customers come already educated on our fragrances, and have a clear idea as to what will work for them. Within ROJA there is a human element, an element of fantasy and lifestyle, that appeals to the next generation of fragrance lovers.
Many of your 2008 predictions in “The Essence of Perfume” came true. Where do you see the industry and consumers in the next 10–15 years?
I believe the niche/luxury fragrance industry will continue to grow. People are looking for fragrances that are as individual as their personality, fragrances that they feel they have discovered for themselves, that set them apart from the crowd. I also believe A.I will play a considerable role in how we choose and educate ourselves on fragrance, and I welcome the innovation that this could bring to the industry.
What advice would you give to aspiring perfumers and new brands in today’s market?
Have a clear identity in your creations. If you do not know what your stand for, how will anybody else?
Always give time to help the next generation. Always remember that somebody did the same for you once upon a time.
In 2 or 3 words, how would you define perfume?
Unleash the genie.
Follow ROJA on Instagram: @rojaparfums
Check out ROJA: https://www.rojaparfums.com
(images cortesy of ROJA)
