SMOKE has an intricate connection to perfumery, as the term PERFUME itself originates from the Latin perfumum, a combination of ‘per’ (through) and ‘fumum’ (smoke). Over 4,000 years ago, our ancestors burned aromatic gums from trees to communicate with the gods. Two of these notable trees are Boswellia sacra (frankincense) and Commiphora myrrha (myrrh). In modern perfumery, which is only about 150 years old, smoky effects can be achieved using various natural or synthetic ingredients to create an air of mystery, evoking either spirituality, comfort, or sensuality. This article will cover the different styles of smoky scents and provide examples for context.

The smoky scent profile is often associated with tree resins that have woody and spicy undertones, such as olibanum (or frankincense), which is cooler with a lemony facet, and myrrh, which is earthier with a licorice facet. Other examples include elemi, which has a fresh, pine-like odor, and styrax, which is sweeter, with hints of leather and vanilla. A smoky aspect can also be obtained from the twigs of shrubs such as cistus labdanum and juniper (cade), and trees like birch (Russian leather). Oils extracted from infected oud (agarwood) and plants like cypriol (nagarmotha) also contribute to smoky effects, as do rhizomes such as vetiver, especially the Indonesian variety, which has an ash-like quality. Various aroma chemicals can be used to produce or amplify a smoky effect, such as Iso E Super, which has a cedar- and incense-like scent, and Isobutyl Quinoline, reminiscent of burnt leather.

“Incense” is a term loosely used to refer to tree resins when burned, particularly olibanum (or frankincense, which translates to “true incense” in French), and myrrh – both of which are mentioned in the Bible and other religious scriptures. In perfumery, olibanum is the most prevalent, and the brand Comme des Garçons paid tribute to it in 2002 with its Incenses Collection, consisting of five compositions representing five types of incense from five regions around the world: Avignon (France), Zagorsk (Russia), Kyoto (Japan), Ouarzazate (Morocco), and Jaisalmer (India). Other examples of incense-centric fragrances include Olivier Durbano’s Black Tourmaline (2007), Goutal’s Encens Flamboyant (2007), Tauer’s Incense Extrême (2008), Profumum Roma’s Arso (2010), Jovoy Paris’ La Liturgie des Heures (2011), Filippo Sorcinelli’s LAVS (2013), Stéphane Humbert Lucas’ Black Gemstone (2013), Imaginary Authors’ A City on Fire (2014), and Amouage’s Overture Man (2019). Frankincense is a recurring theme in Amouage’s fragrances – a traditional niche brand originating from Oman, the land of the purest incense.

The leather note in perfumery was originally produced using the oil obtained from rectified birch tar, also known as Russian Leather, often combined with aroma chemicals like Isobutyl Quinoline, which imparted not only a smoky but also a rubbery, burnt-like quality – quite different from the clean, velvety, suede-like leather we know today, which is crafted using modern synthetics such as Saffraleine. Numerous compositions with the theme of Russian leather emerged starting in the 1920s, exemplified by the iconic Chanel’s Cuir de Russie (1927). Additional fragrances that blend classic leather with smoky accents feature Tauer’s Lonestar Memories (2006), Montale’s Aoud Cuir d’Arabie (2006), Histoires de Parfums’ 1740 (2008), Amouage’s Memoir Man (2010), Carner Barcelona’s Cuirs (2011), Papillon’s Anubis (2012), Puredistance’s Black (2013), Byredo’s Sellier (2016), Matière Première’s Falcon Leather (2019), and Orto Parisi’s Cuoium (2021).

Smoky scents with a tobacco theme are well represented by the trailblazer Molinard’s Habanita (1921), which was originally launched as sachets to scent cigarettes, aiming to harmonize the trail of smoke while becoming a symbol of female independence. Tobacco-centric fragrances can be drier and more mysterious, as in Serge Lutens’ Fumérie Turque (2003), État Libre d’Orange’s Jasmins et Cigarette (2006), Amouage’s Journey Man (2014), Akro’s Smoke (2018), and Amouage’s Opus XIV Royal Tobacco (2022), or sweeter and more addictive, as in Serge Lutens’ Chergui (2001), Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d’Ascèse (2012), Parfums de Marly’s Herod (2012), Jovoy Paris’ Les Jeux Sont Faits (2013), and Tiziana Terenzi’s Laudano Nero (2014).

Smoke combined with sweet notes like vanilla has become a growing trend over the past decade – evoking both comfort and a meditative state,  described by some as the feeling of roasting marshmallows over a campfire. Diptyque’s Eau Duelle (2010), Imaginary Authors’ Memoirs of a Trespasser (2012), Arquiste’s The Architects Club (2014), Atelier des Ors’ Lune Féline (2015), Maison Margiela’s By the Fireplace (2015), Zadig & Voltaire’s This Is Him (2016), and Matière Première’s Encens Suave (2019) are great picks for those seeking this style of smoky fragrance.

Finally, one may enjoy a contrast of light and darkness in smoky florals, whether soliflores, chypres, woodies, or ambers. With a focus on white flowers: L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Passage d’Enfer (1999), Pierre Guillaume’s Louanges Profanes 19 (2008), Histoires de Parfums’ Tubéreuse 3 Animale (2010), Oriza L. Legrand’s Rélique d’Amour (2012), Serge Lutens’ La Réligieuse (2015), and Amouage’s Portrayal Woman (2019). Highlighting rose: Eau d’Italie’s Paestum Rose (2006), Tauer’s Incense Rosé (2008), Amouage’s Lyric Man (2008) and Lyric Woman (2008), and Frédéric Malle’s Portrait of a Lady (2010). Iconic, Caron’s Parfum Sacré (1990) is a classic fragrance that blends a bouquet of flowers such as rose, jasmine, orange blossom, and mimosa, with spices, olibanum, and myrrh.

SMOKY FRAGRANCE PICKS

Here is a list of fragrances that capture a smoky scent through various combinations of elements such as oud, incense, tobacco, and leather.

Nasomatto’s Black Afgano, 2009 (oud, incense, tobacco, cannabis, woods)
Laurent Mazzone’s Black Oud, 2011 (oud, incense, spices, animalic notes)
Amouage’s Interlude Man, 2012 (incense, oud, amber, leather, spices, oregano)
Tiziana Terenzi’s Laudano Nero, 2014 (incense, oud, amber, tobacco, whisky)
Roja Parfums’ Sweetie Aoud, 2015 (oud, incense, labdanum, cardamom, gourmand accord)
Carner Barcelona’s Black Calamus, 2016 (labdanum, incense, oud, calamus, spices)
Bohoboco’s Olibanum Gardenia, 2016 (incense, labdanum, woods, gardenia, coconut)
Amouroud’s Oud Tabac, 2018 (oud, tobacco, vanilla, incense, spices)
Omanluxury’s Royal Incense, 2018 (incense, amber, honey, geranium, spices)
Blackcliff’s Mr. Pink, 2021 (incense, cotton candy, saffron, labdanum, citruses)

(text by Daniel Barros)