The term “SOLAR” in perfumery is relatively recent – it wasn’t part of the perfume lexicon until the mid-2000s. While natural or synthetic raw materials used in creating today’s so-called solar accords had long been present in fine fragrances, they weren’t deliberately combined to evoke a more literal sensation of radiant sunlight hitting our skin on a beach vacation, sometimes bordering on the scent of sunscreen. The industry’s marketing didn’t embrace and promote the term “solar” until the last decade, when it gained traction and became a trend. These fragrances are crafted to evoke feelings of joy, well-being, and coziness, with a touch of sensuality.
In solar fragrances, certain notes stand out, particularly tropical flowers and lactonic fruits, enveloped by musks and gourmand undertones, along with citrus and green notes for a contrast between warmth and freshness and sweetness. The most common flowers are the ones with facets of ripe lactonic fruits such as peach and apricot, including frangipani (aka plumeria), tiaré flower (a type of gardenia), ylang-ylang (with also a banana-like hint), and osmanthus (aka sweet olive), as well as bright orange blossom, creamy tuberose, and spicy lily. The king of lactonic fruits in this context is definitely coconut. Vanilla stands out as a key gourmand element, while hay and immortelle add a special herbal touch.
(from top to bottom, left to right: frangipani, tiaré flower, ylang-ylang, osmanthus)
However, the secret lies in Salicylates, particularly Benzyl Salicylate, a molecule with a name not very appealing to consumers. For many decades, it was used in ultraviolet-blocking products, which explains our association with summer beach vacations. With its abstract and hard-to-define odor, Benzyl Salicylate is best known for imparting a radiant effect in compositions. In solar fragrances, it is often combined with other synthetics, notably Calone and/or Helional for a watery and ozonic quality, Cashmeran for a musky and balsamic touch, Heliotropin for an almondy and powdery nuance, and Ambrox for a salty and mineral finish.
(Benzyl Salicylate)
The first fragrance with a truly solar marketing approach was Jil Sander’s Sun (1989). Many years later, Mugler drew attention with its reinterpretation of the best-seller Alien (2005) in the flanker Alien Sunessence (2009). Estée Lauder’s Bronze Goddess Eau Fraîche Skinscent (2008) is another landmark in mainstream perfumery. More recently, Rabanne made a bold move with 1 Million Parfum (2020), a masculine fragrance featuring a salty monoï-tuberose. Meanwhile, the niche market and designers’ private collections embraced the solar genre, openly or not, consolidating it as one of the biggest trends of the last decade.
SOLAR FRAGRANCE PICKS
Bond No. 9’s Fire Island, 2006 (tuberose, coconut, spices, musk)
Maison Martin Margiela’s Beach Walk, 2012 (ylang, coconut, heliotrope, musk)
Nicolaï’s Musc Monoï, 2014 (citrus, watery, ylang, coconut, musk)
Amouage’s Sunshine Woman, 2014 (osmanthus, vanilla, almond)
Pierre Guillaume’s Appelez-Moi Seychelles, 2015 (lily, frangipani, coconut, salt)
Tom Ford’s Soleil Blanc, 2016 (tuberose, ylang, coconut, amber)
Dior’s Balade Sauvage, 2018 (watery, ozonic, fig, peach, white flowers)
Penhaligon’s Solaris, 2023 (tiaré, ylang, vanilla, sandalwood)
Kilian’s Sunkissed Goddess, 2024 (tiaré, ylang, coconut)
Roja Parfums’ Isola Sol, 2024 (apricot, ylang, coconut, sandalwood, musk)
(text by Daniel Barros)
